Category: Tutorials

Print and Cut with Silhouette Studio and Tin Teddy Clip Art

Tin Teddy Friday Freebie 112

In this little tutorial I am going to show you how to use a Silhouette Cameo or Portrait cutter and the Silhouette Studio software to print and cut out your Tin Teddy clip art images – or any other clip art.  This tutorial is also of use to anyone who use the Silhouette software with a different brand of cutting machine.

You only need the basic (free) version of Silhouette Studio for this tutorial, although of course it is also compatible with the more advance Designer edition.

I will be using the Tin Teddy Friday Freebie no 112, a giraffe, so please download that if you wish to work along with me.Tin Teddy Friday Freebie 112

Here I will show you how to do a basic print and cut.  I will do two more tutorials to show you how to do an offset “sticker” cut, and how to turn your giraffe into a cool silhouette cut out.

1 – Make sure you have the giraffe image (or a similar .png image of your choice) and you know where it is stored on your computer.

2 – Open your Silhouette Studio software and go to the Library.

3 – Create a new folder if you want, or choose where you are going to put your giraffe.

4 – Click on File, Import, Import to Library and find your giraffe (he is called TTFridayFreebie112, unless you renamed him) and he will be imported into your Silhouette Library.  If you want to import a lot of images at once you need to select and drag and drop them from another window, into the Library.  But for now let’s just use our giraffe friend.

5 – Double click on the giraffe and he will appear on your cutting mat in the main Silhouette screen.

6 – Select the giraffe by clicking on him.  You will know you have selected him as his dimensions will appear around him.


7 – If you want to resize him, click one of the corner boxes.  Hold down your shift key then drag the box in or out to change his size.  Holding the shift key keeps his overall proportions correct, so you do not end up with a short fat giraffe or something like that.

8 – Click on the Trace option and click the top button in the pane that opens –  “Select Trace Area”opentracepane

9 – Drag a box over your giraffe.  It looks a bit odd at the moment, but don’t worry.giraffefirstrace

10 – In the Tracing Pane, uncheck the box marked “High Pass Threshold”.  Now adjust the slider called “Threshold” until the giraffe is a solid yellow silhouette.  Click the “Trace” button near the top of the Tracing Pane.


11- You should now see a red line around your giraffe (use the zoom key to get in close if you can’t see it). This is where the cutting will occur


I am going to print two giraffes, so you can see how easy it is to duplicate them

12 – Drag a box over your giraffe and his red outline, right click and select “group”.  This groups the image and cutting line into one handy item

13 – Select your new combined giraffe and hold down the ALT key on your keyboard, now drag the giraffe to the side.. and you will have a perfect copy.  There are a few ways to make duplicates, but I find this way very quick and easy.twogiraffes

Now to set the page up so we can print them and cut them out perfectly.

20 – If you don’t want to use a whole sheet of paper the size of your cutting mat, you can use a smaller one.. just make sure you change the settings.  You do this from the Design Page Settings Pane.  I am going to print my giraffes on to an A6 piece of paper (about 4″ x 6″).  I have adjusted the size so I can see the paper on my cutting mat.  If your giraffes are the wrong size, drag a box over them them and resize using the corner and the SHIFT key, as we did  before.


21 – My giraffes now fit nicely so I will add the Guide marks. Open the Registrations Marks window and change Style to whichever type of Silhouette you own. DesignPage

These marks will tell the Silhouette exactly where the giraffes are on the page.  If your giraffes overlap the marks, resize them again as before.girrafes-with-cutting-marks

22 – Print the page out (click the picture of a printer!), remember to set your printer settings to the right size and type of paper.

23 – You should get something like this.  Two identical giraffes, waiting to be cut out.. so let’s do that.

24 – Mount the page onto your cutting mat in the right location to match the screen, and load into your Silhouette as normal

25 – Make sure both giraffes are selected

26 – Click on “Send to Silhouette” and make sure that your settings and blade depth are correct for the type of paper/card you are using.  If no cutting options are selected, choose “cut”

26 – Watch as your Silhouette cuts out the two giraffes – which you can now use in your crafting projects.

Explaining each step like this takes a LOT longer than actually doing this.  Once you have cut a couple of things out with the Print and Cut feature you will do it very quickly.  It can definitely make cutting out lots of little things a LOT easier.

How to Make a Custom Box for Jewelry – Tutorial

Tin Teddy Earrings Box Tutorial

If you make jewelry or other small items for sale, or just like to make sure that gifts you give are attractive then this tutorial may be of use.

I am going to show you how to easily make a smart, sturdy card box that is just the right size for your item.






Sturdy card
Bone folder (or spoon)
Tacky glue or other strong glue/tape
Scrap paper or a notepad
Small bulldog or paper clips
Scoring Board (not essential, but very useful)
Paper cutter (not essential, but very useful)





I will use a pair of earrings as an example, but you can easily adapt this technique to make a box for many other types of items.

If you are going to use a scoring board then it is best to work with whatever measurement unit your board has.  So although I am in the UK, where we officially use metric measurements, my scoring board is in inches, so that is what I will use for the examples here.

Earring or Necklace Insert (optional)

We will start with making the insert of the box.  Some products will not need an insert, but they are great for presenting earrings or necklaces in a smart way.

Lay your earrings down so you can measure how big the insert needs to be.  With stud earrings you may find it easier to lay them down “upside down”.

Make sure the earrings have a little space between them.  They will also need a little space around them.TTEarringBox1

Measure the height of the earrings, plus however much space you want above and below them.  If you are planning to add a description below them remember you will need space for this too.

Then measure the width of both earrings and a little space either side. It is much easier to work with “round” figures, so adjust your results to a nice figure.  So 3 inches is better than 2 13/16ths, or 20cms is better than 19cms.

Draw a square / rectangle on a scrap of paper and add the dimensions you just worked out.  My earrings here are going to have a 3 inch square insert to sit on.

My earrings are on hooks and will need just under 1/2 inch clearance behind the insert. Stud earrings may need more to fit the posts in and a necklace on a chain may be fine with 1/4 inch clearance.

Add the tabs to the top and bottom of your sketch, with their dimensions. So my example is 3 inches wide, but will be a total of 4 inches long (3 inches plus 1/2 inch tab each end).TTEarringBox2

Measure and cut out a piece of card in this size – this is your box insert.  If you want to add a description, stamp or write it now.

It is easiest to crease the tabs using a scoring board – in my example I just lay the insert on the scoring board and crease with my bone folder at the 1/2 inch mark, then I turned the insert around and did the same at the other end.TTEarringBox3

If you do not have a scoring board then measure the tabs, mark them with a pencil, and score.

Lay your earrings on to the insert to decide where to place the holes for the hooks or studs.  Mark with a pencil then measure (if you are going to make more than one box).

I punched the holes with a Crop-a-Dile hole punch.  You could also use an awl, knitting needle or some other “pokey thing”.

For a necklace you can cut a slit on either side of the insert, for the chain to pass through.

Cutting the Box Base and Lid

We already know the base’s dimensions, we just need to work out how big the piece of card required will be.

Decide how high your box sides needs to be.

In my example I already know that the insert sits 1/2 inch above the base.  I decided that I would also have 1/2 inch above the insert.  So that is 1 inch high sides.TTEarringBox5

So in my example the card for the base of the box needs to be 5 inches square.  That is 3 inches for the base dimensions, plus 1 inch either edge for the sides.

I used a paper cutter which makes it very quick and easy to cut the card.  You could of course use scissors, measuring and marking where to cut in advance.

You need another piece of card, exactly the same size as the base.  Obviously the lid needs to be a tiny bit bigger than the base, to fit on, but this difference is created with the scoring, not the cutting of the card.

Finishing the Box Base and Lid

For the base you score using the dimensions of the box height.  So if your

box is going to be 1″ high, like mine, you just score at 1″ on the scoring board, then turn the base card and do it again until you have done all four sides.


Without a scoring board you will need to measure, mark and score instead.

For the lid you need to score at the groove BEFORE the height of the box.  So if your box is going to be 1″ high then you need to score at 7/8th inch.  Repeat this for all 4 sides. This is the simple trick to making sure the box lid will fit on the base.

Use your bone folder, or a spoon, and run it along all the scored edges to ensure they are properly creased.

For each corner, cut diagonally from the corner to the junction of the creases.  Then cut down one of the edge creases so that there is a triangular tab left in the corner – Corner A in the diagram.  If you want a neater (but slower to create) type of corner you can cut it like Corner B.TTEarringBox8

Apply strong tacky glue to a corner tab, fold up the sides and wipe off any glue that squeezes out of the joint (I just use my finger to do that!).  Hold it for a moment to ensure the glue has gripped. Apply a little bulldog clip or paper clip to the corner to hold it until it is properly dried.TTEarringBox9

Work your way around the corners, gluing and clipping each one.  Do this for both the base and the top of the box.

When you box parts are dry, pop the insert into the base add your item and pop on the lid!





You can of course decorate your box if you want.

I made mine from brown kraft card for the base and a 6″ x 6″ scrapbook 200gsm paper pad for the lids.

If you are selling your products then you can add branding to your box – it may be easier to do this whilst the box is still flat.

These instructions may sound like they will take quite a while, but actually it is quite a quick and easy process – if you have a scoring board!

Once I had worked out the dimensions of my inserts, I printed them from the computer so I could add a printed description to each one.  You could also hand write a description, or use a rubber stamp.

You could add a square of felt or textured paper on top of the insert to make an attractive background for your product.TTEarringBox10



Coloring a stamped image with Pencils – a simple guide

Coloured Pencil 101

[dropcap style=”font-size: 60px; color: #9b9b9b;”] C [/dropcap]olouring things in is very popular right now.  Whether it is a rubber stamped image, a digi stamp, a hand drawn picture or a geometric grid, people are happily colouring them in and producing beautiful artwork for their crafting projects.

Here is a simple tutorial on how to colour a stamped image.  Whilst I am using coloured pencils, the principles are the same for other mediums such as alcohol markers or acrylic paints.

I started by stamping an image on to good quality, high density white card.  I use Neenah white card-stock for most of my stamping because it works so well with pencils and markers.  I stamped in black dye ink.  Remember to use a different type of ink to the medium you are going to colour in, to prevent the lines mixing with the colouring.  So use dye ink pads when you are using alcohol pens, and use permanent ink pads when using watercolour pencils, watercolours, inks or other water based media.

I am using Spectrum Noir oil-based pencils, and all the colours used are from the Essentials tin.  I am using blending medium but you could also use a blending pencil.

[dropcap style=”font-size: 60px; color: #9b9b9b;”] F [/dropcap]irst I chose what colour I wanted the bear’s fur to be, and picked out three pencils in that colour – one light, one medium and one dark shade.

Scroll through the pictures to see the stages of colouring the bear.  You can easily flick back and forwards to see how each stage changes the overall look.

  • First I use the lightest shade and lightly colour the whole bear. Don't worry if you can see pencil strokes at this stage.

Decorated Artist Trading Card Tin – a tutorial

Tin Teddy ATC Holder Thumb

Lately I have been making a lot of ATCs (Artist Trading Cards).  Whilst I store them in a binder, I like to be able to transport them safely to swaps etc.

I have a small white tin for carrying cards.  I got mine in my local craft shop.  As well as these ATC tins you could also use any tin sold for storing trading cards.




Small tin of  your choice
Fawn coloured acrylic paint – any “vintage” type shade would do
Matte medium gel – or PVA, or Mod Podge if you prefer
Distress Ink – I used Brushed Corduroy
Sponge applicators – for distress ink and matte medium
Paintbrush – for paint (and matte medium if you prefer using a brush)
Small rubber stamps – I used some old wooden block ones
Permanent marker pens – I used Faber-Castell PITT brush pens in black and walnut
Black Sharpy or other alcohol marker
Thread and fibres

Tin Teddy ATC Holder Materials


Any other embellishments you wish to add!





1 – My tin was already primed with white paint.  If yours is not, you can undercoat it with gesso to provide a good base coat for the decorating.

2 – I painted Fawn coloured craft acrylic paint around the edges of the tin.  You could paint it all over but the important bit is to cover any white that will show at the end.ATCHolderTutorial1







3 – Next I cut rectangular panels from vintage style scrapbook paper.  My panels did not fully cover each side, there is about half an inch all around them.  I used scrap paper to make a template first, so I knew I was cutting my panels to the size I wanted.

4 – Go around the edges of the panels with distress ink (I used Brushed Corduroy).  I also added some distress ink to the edges of the tin.

5 – Glue the panels on to the front, back and sides of the tin with matte medium gel.  You can use PVA if you prefer but the matte medium works particularly well.  I then added more matte medium over the panels to seal them into place.ATCHolderTutorial3

ATCHolderTutorial46 – Next cut out your chosen images from a Tin Teddy 1″ Circle digital collage sheet – you could of course use the 1″ Squares, Tin Teddy Dominoes, 40mm Ovals or any other images you wish.

7 – Brush the side of a black Sharpy or alcohol marker on the edges of the circles to get rid of any white.  This will also help tidy it up if you are not so neat at cutting them out.

8 – Add the circles to the front and back of the tin with matte medium.  Again I added a coat of matte medium over the top of each circle too for protection.

You could, of course, add as much or as little embellishment as you wish.  Because I knew I would be carrying this tin around with me I wanted to keep mine quite simple.

9 – I stamped some tiny flowers and butterflies over the tin.  I coloured them with Faber Castell Pitt brush markers ATCHolderTutorial5before stamping, but you could also use a permanent type ink pad.  If you want to use acrylic stamps for this you may find it easier to not mount them on to a block, as you usually would.  I used old wooden mounted stamps which were very tiny and on long mounts, so I had no problems stamping them in the small areas around the handle etc.

10 – Finally tie an assortment of threads and fibres around the handle for a fun finish.

A fun alternative would be to hang a tag from the handle.










The images used in this tutorial are from the Tin Teddy Vintage Ladies 1″ Circles Digital Collage Sheet.

The matt medium works as a sealant as well as glue.  You can add an extra coat or two to ensure your tin is hard-wearing.  You could also coat it with ModPodge.

You could add whatever extra embellishments you wish-  buttons, charms, yarn and lace all look great.  I kept mine simple because I knew I would be carrying it around.

I strongly recommend keeping your embellishments away from the area of the tin that is covered by the closed lid.  If you make this area thick the lid may not shut – or open!TTATCHolderTutorial



Super easy Crochet washcloth, flannel or dishcloth pattern

Tin Teddy Crochet Washcloths


Today I thought I would share my super easy to crochet washcloth pattern.  It really is a doddle to create but works very well and looks pretty.






About 20grm Cotton yarn – I used DK yarn (worsted weight)
Crochet hook – I used a 5mm (US size H-8, old UK size 6)

You do not need to worry about gauge for this pattern, and can substitute different thicknesses of yarn or hook if you need.  I used double knitting (worsted weight) cotton yarn.   If you use a thinner yarn it will take longer to make the same size washcloth, but have a finer look to it.  Similary a thicker yarn will be quicker to make up but look chunkier.

I used a 5mm (H-8) crochet hook.  A different size hook will result in a more or less dense look.

Cotton yarn is recommended as it is very soft to use, washes well and the washcloth will last a long time.

The cloth pictured here is about 21cms square (8 1/4 inches).





There are two versions of this pattern, one each for UK and American terminology.  Just use which ever you are happiest using.

UK Crochet Pattern:TTUKFlagIcon

ch = chain
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet

1 – Chain to the width you want your finished washcloth.  I used 35 chains.
2 – Dc into the front thread of the third chain from the hook.  Continue to dc into the front of each chain to the end.
3 – Ch 2 and turn your work

Repeat 2 and 3 until the washcloth is square

The border (optional):

Ch 3
1 – miss a stitch then tr into the next stitch
2 – ch 1
Repeat 1 and 2 until you reach the cornerCh4
Tr in corner stitch again

Continue down the side of the washcloth, putting a treble in alternate rows to form a similar pattern to the top.

Continue around the washcloth until you are back at the beginning.

Join to the top of the starting chain with a slip stitch and you have finished!



US Crochet Pattern:TTUSFlagIcon

ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet

1 – Chain to the width you want your finished washcloth.  I used 35 chains.
2 – Sc into the front thread of the third chain from the hook.  Continue to sc into the front of each chain to the end.
3 – Ch 2 and turn your work

Repeat 2 and 3 until the washcloth is square
The border (optional):

Ch 3
1 – miss a stitch then dc into the next stitch
2 – ch 1
Repeat 1 and 2 until you reach the cornerCh4
Dc in corner stitch again

Continue down the side of the washcloth, putting a double crochet in alternate rows to form a similar pattern to the top

Continue around the washcloth until you are back at the beginning.

Join to the top of the starting chain with a slip stitch and you have finished!TTCrochetWashclothPattern




You can block your washcloth if you want, just dampen it then pin it out on a firm surface.

An easy way to see if your washcloth is square yet is to fold a bottom corner up to the top edge.  If it forms a perfect triangle then you are done.  If not… keep crocheting!

You could probably get 3 or 4 cloths this size from a 50gr ball of yarn.

The washcloth I have pictured here was made by crocheting into just the front part of each stitch.  You could work the usual type of stitch for a slightly different effect too of course.

Fold up two or three of the washcloths and wrap a piece of baker’s twine or raffia around them.  Add a home made label and you have a beautiful and useful present.

These washcloths sell very well at craft fairs, especially if presented nicely (see above).  Don’t forget to include details of how to wash them (see the label on your yarn for this information).

You can easily make bigger or smaller versions for different needs.  How about a larger version, using a bigger hook, for a more stringy looking floor cloth?  Or a pair of smaller pieces for a new baby’s “top and tail” cloths?

TinTeddy Crochet Washcloths


How to Make a Scrabble Tile Pendant – Tutorial

TinTeddy Pendant Tutorial

I have been having a lot of fun recently, making beautiful pendants from Tin Teddy images.

Each item in the “Squares” range includes a sheet with images that are specially chosen and sized to work with “scrabble” sized tiles.

You can of course use any small images for this tutorial.




Tin Teddy scrabble tile graphics or similar
Wooden scrabble size tile
Sharp craft knife or scissors
Black acrylic paint and brush, or black Sharpy pen
Strong tacky glue
Versamark clear ink pad or similar
Clear embossing powder or UTEE
Embossing heat gun
Pendant bail
Cord or chain


Fine sandpaper





1 – Paint the edges of the wooden tiles with black acrylic paint, or colour them with a black Sharpy pen

Tin Teddy Tile Tutorial 1



2 – Select a picture from a Tin Teddy digital collage sheet, the Square sets include a page with tiles that are the right size for Scrabble tiles.  I print mine on glossy photo paper as this makes the images very sharp and clear.

3 – Cut out your chosen image and glue it to the front of the wooden tile with tacky glue or similar.

4 – When the glue has dried, carefully use a knife or scissors to trim any excess paper from around the tile if necessary



5 – OPTIONAL – lightly sand around the very edges of the image to give a smooth, blended look

6 – Press the front (image side) of the tile onto a Versamark or other clear ink pad a few times, be sure it is fully covered.

7 – Sprinkle clear embossing powder onto the tile and tap off any excess



8 – Gently heat the embossing powder with your heat gun, watch for when it goes clear and smooth



9 – Quickly sprinkle more embossing powder on to the hot tile and tap off any excess

10 – Continue heating the powder and applying more layers until you are happy with the results.  I used 3 layers on my tiles.  If you are using a thicker embossing powder you may only need one layer.

11 – Wait a few minutes to be sure the embossing powder has dried then glue the bail to the reverse of your tile with strong glue



12 – OPTIONAL – I coat the edges of my tiles with a thin layer of PVA glue to provide additional protection and a gentle shine to the edges

13 – Add a chain or cord and proudly wear your beautiful new pendant






You can create similar pendants with plastic tiles too.

If you are making pendants to sell, how about popping them in little card boxes so customers can give them as gifts. Check out my Tutorial for Making Custom Boxes here.

Read the Tin Teddy Blog articles about selling at craft fairs to help get more sales!

You could coat the edges of the tile with embossing powder instead of painting them.  Gold or silver would look very attractive.  You may find it easier to paint a light coat of PVA glue to the edge instead of using the Versamark pad, so the embossing doesn’t get on the front and back of the tile too.

You may want to paint the reverse of the tile too, or even put another image (or the same image) there and emboss for a double sided pendant.

If you want to make this project with children then they could coat the image with layers of PVA glue or ModPodge instead of embossing it.


The images used in this tutorial are from the following Tin Teddy digital collage sets (names link to the sets in my Etsy shop):

Tin Teddy Vintage Dogs 1″ Squares
Tin Teddy Vintage Cats 1″ Squares
Tin Teddy Vintage Cute Animals 1″ Squares
Tin Teddy Vintage Japanese Artwork 1″ Squares



Make a Decorated Pot with Old Newspapers

Tin Teddy Rolled Paper Container

A very easy tutorial on how to make an unusual pot with junk from around the house.  Scroll down for the video version!

This is a really great way to recycle those glossy magazines and colourful leaflets.

The pot I am decorating here took less than one magazine to make.

I used a glue gun for speed. If you are making a decorated tin or plastic pot then you may need strong glue like this.  If you are making a card pot then you can use PVA glue instead.




A pot or containerTTDecoratedPot2
Some glossy magazines
A pencil, knitting needle, skewer or similar
Glue – glue stick or PVA (for making tubes)
Glue – strong PVA or hot glue gun (for assembly)
Scrapbook paper


Tin Teddy butterflies
Other embellishments




Watch the video for a detailed walk-through 🙂

Here is a summary:

  • Choose a pot to decorate – you can use a card, plastic or tin pot
  • Tear out pages from glossy magazines
  • Roll a page around your pencil or knitting needle, from corner to corner
  • Glue approximately the last inch (3 cms)
  • Slide off the pencil/knitting needle and leave to dry
  • Glue the tubes around your pot with PVA or a glue gun
  • Trim the ends of the tubes so they are tidy
  • Add strips of pretty paper to the ends if you want
  • Add a coat of PVA glue or similar if you want to make your finished pot harder wearing
  • Add braid, cord or paper to neaten the ends of the tubes
  • Decorate with embellishments of your choice




You can do this project with any paper – newspaper looks great on a waste paper bin, and maps are very on trend right now

You could pieces of yarn between the tubes for a different look – or wrap very thin strips of paper around them before sticking them to the pot.
Paper straws could also be used – cheap, ready made tubes!  Or even old pencils.
Cover the cardboard tube from inside a toilet roll, add a simple card base and you have a new holder for your pens.
It is easier to glue tubes halfway around the pot and then cut them to length, then repeat with the rest of the tubes – or trim them with a sharp knife rather than scissors

Paper craft tutorial – Woven paper apperture

This is a tutorial for a very simple but attractive effect to use in your card making, scrapbooking and other paper craft projects.

This is a great way to use up scraps of paper.  I often do this with the free scrapbook papers that many crafting magazines include, as they are very thin.

You will need:

base card
a die, large hole punch or template
piece of scrap paper
strips of paper
glue that sticks paper (glue stick, photo glue or PVA glue is ideal) or a tape pen, or double sided tape
embellishments as required

Let’s Begin..

1 – cut out the aperture from your base card using a die cutting machine, large punch or template.  You could also use a pre-cut aperture card.  Keep the cut out piece for a future project.


2 – use the die, template or the aperture you have just cut to draw the same shape onto a piece of scrap paper.  As long as the scrap paper is at least half an inch bigger than the aperture all round it doesn’t matter what you use.  I am using junk mail here.TTApperture2

3 – cut some strips of paper.  I am using two colors of scrapbook paper that coordinate.  I cut my strips using a household shredder but you could of course cut them with scissors or a paper cutter too.

4 – put a strip of glue on the scrap paper, at one side of the drawing of the shape.  Now carefully lay strips of one colour of the paper onto the scrap paper, so they are fixed down at the glued end.  Leave the other end of the strips unglued.  But each strip up against the previous one as neatly as possible.  Make sure you have added enough strips so that the shape you drew on the scrap paper is completely covered.TTApperture3

5 – now take one of the strips of the other color and weave it over and under the strips on the scrap paper.  This is easiest if you do the weaving at the unglued end of the base strips.  Push the woven strip up to the top so it is over the drawn pattern area.TTApperture4

6 – continue to add the strips, weaving each one under a base strip where the previous one went over, and vice versa.  Make sure the whole of the area of the drawn shape is covered (you can easily flip up the weaving to look underneath to see).TTApperture5


7 – apply glue around the edge of the aperture in the base card.  Make sure there is a good coverage of glue.  Then lay the base card on to the weaving so that the part you can see through the apperture looks attractive.  Handy hint – if you have a square or rectangle aperture, try laying the weaving at an angle as well as straight up and down.


8 – flip up the scrap paper and add a bit of glue before pressing it down on to the back of the woven strips, so everything is very secure.  Trim the excess ends of the woven strips so that the base card looks tidy from the front.


9 – now mount your base card onto a card blank, or however you wish to use it.  Add embellishments to suit.  If you used a nesting die to cut your apperture then you can easily cut a frame for it.

10 – experiment with different types of paper for the woven strips.  Old magazine pages, maps or junk mail can also be used.  They look very interesting if used with a plain coloured paper for contrast.

Craft Tutorial – little crochet flowers

I have been busy crocheting lots of little flowers for a craft project.  They are very simple to make, so I thought I would pop the pattern on here.

They only use a very small amount of yarn so are great for using up those little left overs from other projects.

Most of the ones in the pictures here were made with cheap acrylic yarn but I have also used cotton, wool blends and more exotic yarns too.

I make mine with two colours of yarn, but you can of course make single colour versions too.



Little Crochet Flowers

You Need:

  • small amounts of Double Knitting or Light worstead weight yarn
  • 3.5mm crochet hook (US size E)

You can use thinner or thicker yarn, just use a thinner or thicker hook too – experiment to find a combo you like 🙂
I have made tiny ones with no 10 crochet cotton and a 1.5mm hook

What to do – British version:


Using the colour you want for the middle:

Chain 6 and join into a ring with a slip stitch

Round 1 – Chain 1  then double crochet 10 stitches into the ring, slip stitch into the first stitch to end

Fasten off and join the petal colour to any outside stitch

Round 2 – [5 treble crochet in the next stitch, Slip stitch in the next stitch] Repeat all the way around so you have 5 petals

Fasten off


What to do – American version:


Using the color you want for the middle:

Chain 6 and join in to a ring with a slip stitch

Round 1 – Chain 1  then single crochet 10 stitches into the ring, slip stitch into the first stitch to end

Fasten off and join the petal color to any outside stitch

Round 2 – [5 double crochet in the next stitch, Slip stitch in the next stitch]  Repeat all the way around so you have 5 petals

Fasten off




You can also easily make a 6 petaled variation by putting 12 stitches in to the middle ring (instead of 10), then making each petal from 4 trebles (instead of 5).

Use your little flowers as embellishments for crocheted or knitted items like bags, pillows or hats.  Add them to birthday cards or scrapbooks.  Or how about turning them into beautiful, lightweight jewelry such as earrings?

I would love to hear how you have used your little crocheted flowers in your crafting projects.